How to Apply Curl Cream for Bouncy, Hydrated Hair

A great curl cream can make a world of difference in your curly hair routine—that is, if you know how to apply curl cream correctly. These styling products (intended for coily, curly, and wavy hair types) can help to enhance definition while combatting dryness and frizz. But if you’re noticing more buildup and heaviness than bounce and shine, it’s worth revisiting your product selection and application technique.

Not sure where to start with a curl cream—or whether you’re getting the best results out of yours? Below, we asked a curly hair expert to share her best tips on how to pick and apply curl cream based on your hair type and routine.

How to pick a curl cream

Anyone with curly hair knows that perfecting your product roster can take some trial and error. But when it comes to choosing curl cream, one hair characteristic will point you in the right direction.

“The most important thing when choosing a curl cream is knowing your porosity,” Mirna Jose, curly and textured hair expert and isima hairstylist tells Glamour. Not sure what your porosity level is? You can do a quick “strand test” to tell, according to Ona Diaz-Santin, the CEO of 5 Salon Spa.

Here’s how it works: Float a clean strand of hair in a glass of water. If it sinks to the bottom, you have high-porosity hair; if the strand floats at the top, you have low-porosity hair; if it floats somewhere in the middle, you have medium-porosity hair.

“High porosity hair has open cuticles that both absorb moisture and lose it quickly, so you need to find a curl cream that is going to fill in the cuticle and doesn’t leave it empty,” Jose says. She also notes that high porosity hair absorbs product faster, but often needs more moisture.

Low porosity hair, on the other hand, “has more tightly closed cuticles that product can’t penetrate as easily, so it needs something lighter in consistency.” If you have low porosity hair, skip the heavy butters. Jose recommends isima’s Curls Don’t Lie Curl Perfector for a lightweight formula, with heavy-duty hydrating benefits, which “can be used effectively on both ends of the porosity spectrum.”

How to apply curl cream, step by step

Step 1: Start with wet hair

After washing your hair, Jose recommends applying a leave-in conditioner to detangle and lock in extra moisture. Lots of curly hair routines pair a leave-in with a curl cream for best results.

Step 2: Section your hair

“Sectioning is the most important step,” Jose says. “Nothing else matters if you don’t section because the product will just sit on top of the hair!” The smaller the sections you can work in, the better. In a pinch, quickly section your hair to at least three “levels,” using a gentle clip to hold the uncoated wet hair out of the way. Work from your undermost layer of hair upwards.

Step 3: Apply curl cream

“Once you begin applying your curl cream to wet, sectioned hair, focus application from mid-shaft to the ends,” Jose says. She notes that since the ends are the driest part of your hair, they should get the most attention. Squeeze or scoop the recommended amount of your curl cream onto your palms, and start from the bottom of your hair. Work your way up to the scalp, raking the product to ensure that your curls are evenly coated.

Step 4: Dry hair as recommended

The next steps in your process depend on your curl routine and product selection. Lots of curl creams are designed to enhance the air-drying process. You might scrunch your curls while they’re wet to reinforce their definition, but whether you’re air-drying or diffusing, it’s best avoid fluffing and touching damp curls. This will help the curl cream to keep frizz at bay.

Common curl-cream mistakes to avoid

Starting at the root

It feels natural to sweep your hands through your hair from roots to tips, but with curl cream, you’ll want to avoid your scalp and focus on working the product through the body of your hair. Starting at your roots can lead to product buildup, flatness, and uneven distribution.

Using too much (or too little) product.

Jose says that there’s no golden rule when it comes to how much curl cream to apply. “Everyone needs to understand their hair density to apply the right amount,” she says. “Yes, you can start with half the palm of your hand, but if you have a lot of hair, you are going to need more.” One tip that does apply across the boards: Start applying product where your hair is driest (the ends) and work your way up.

Going against your porosity.

Lots of people with thick hair or tight curl patterns automatically gravitate toward rich, buttery curl creams. But remember, you’ll find a better match if you base your selection on porosity—meaning how quickly your hair absorbs product—over texture. For best results, look for a curl cream that caters to both!