A Solo Stay at Turtle Island, Fiji’s Romantic Couples-Only Resort

As I stood on the dock in Nadi, staring at the tiny hopper plane that I was about to board, I couldn’t help but wonder if I’d made a huge mistake by coming to Fiji. The plane looked straight out of the ‘60s, and when I reluctantly entered the cockpit, my eyes nearly popped out of my head at the hundreds of buttons, dials and other thingamajigs that looked way too outdated to still be in operation. The idea of visiting a couples resort solo already had me on edge, and to top things off, I was panicking over the wifi situation, which I had learned was basically non-existent across most of the resort. Despite being in one of the most serene tropical paradises, I was consumed with stress.

Before I knew it, my plane was taking off. For the first 10 minutes, I was fully convinced that we were going to drop out of the sky. I kept my eyes closed as we ascended into the air, and even texted a few friends asking them to please take care of my dear cat Daisy if I wasn’t to return. However, once we leveled out, I was awestruck as I looked down at the Listerine-colored waters, admiring the various islands and coral gardens from above. I had never seen anything quite like this, and after a short half-hour flight, we began our descent toward Turtle Island.

As the rickety plane door slid open, I saw the magical island that awaited. Two Fijian men in traditional warrior garb literally picked me up and placed me on their shoulders, carrying me through the crystal-clear water until I was gently placed on some of the whitest sand I’d ever seen. Between the natural beauty and being physically carried around, to say that I was experiencing sensory overload would be an understatement. Then, the singing started. I looked up to find about 15 different staff members clapping and smiling from ear to ear. One by one, they greeted me with an embrace. I’m not the touchiest person, but it was a heartwarming welcome, and felt surprisingly genuine. Once I got my bearings and remembered that I was still on planet Earth, I was handed a coconut by the guest services manager, Bill Mualele, also known as Uncle Bill. He uttered two simple words: “Welcome home.” 

Each Turtle Island Resort guest is given their own designated Mama or Papa—essentially a butler who takes care of your every need. I was assigned Mama Lo, a soft-spoken Fijian woman with a gentle aura and patient demeanor. After a quick lunch on the beach, Mama Lo led me to my bure, and I was shocked upon seeing its size. For two people, let alone one, these beachfront villas are absolutely massive. Most of the 14 bures feature a separate living area complete with a customizable mini fridge. In the bedroom portion, you’ll find an indoor hot tub that sits opposite the spacious walk-in shower. Every day, your bure is adorned in fresh hibiscus flowers and palm leaf decor, and your mini fridge gets refilled exactly to your liking. I became an absolute fanatic for soursop juice, a creamy and sweet nectar made from the pulp of the soursop fruit—it’s also a great mixer for rum. By the end of the trip, I was going through almost an entire bottle a day. 

My first couple of days at Turtle Island consisted of snorkeling just off the hotel’s main beach, where I saw everything from bright blue starfish and giant clams to stunning (yet startling) sea snakes, and getting my lay of the land. The entire experience is all-inclusive, from premium alcohol and meals to daily experiences and activities, with rates starting around $2,000 per night. Every other day, each couple is provided with a private beach where they can enjoy a picnic on the wide stretches of sand without any prying eyes, proving to be one of the hotel’s most unique highlights. Though Turtle Island Resort typically doesn’t allow solo travelers, I was made an exception as a journalist, and I must say, having an entire Fijian beach to myself was both thrilling and surreal. 

In the evenings, guests can choose between private dinners on floating pontoons or picturesque cliffsides, but the property also encourages plenty of communal dining. During our first happy hour, I was introduced to several different couples—some were newlyweds on their honeymoon, others were celebrating milestone anniversaries. And then, there was me. Despite the fact that I travel solo often, I would be lying if I didn’t say that the first two nights of the trip were intimidating. I wasn’t sure how the other couples would feel about my presence, and I had a heightened awareness that my odd number was throwing off the dinner seating each night. However, on the third day of my trip, I quickly learned that Turtle Island is about far more than romance. 

Though this legendary resort, which has hosted (now former) couples including Jessica Simpson and Nick Lachey, Tommy Lee and Pamela Anderson and Britney Spears and Kevin Federline, is best known as a honeymoon destination, the staff go above and beyond to ensure that you leave with a genuine understanding of their local culture. Every Wednesday is “Fijian Day,” and while you’re welcome to build your own itinerary, I suggest following their lead. 

Fijian Day kicks off with the usual breakfast, which can be enjoyed on your private daybed or on the beach with the other guests, just before the staff take you out on a boat to one of the nearby villages in the Yasawa Islands. Once we arrived, we realized that low tide had prevented us from reaching the beach, and we had to roll up our pants and wade through the shallow water until we reached the sand, passing local fishermen who chuckled at our caution and lack of balance. We then hiked up a short hill and found a small school waiting at the top. We were instructed to sit on benches under a tree, and before we knew it, rows of children lined up in front of us, all sporting curious smiles as they whispered and stared.

The kids sang us a few songs, and a few of the older couples were tearing up. Their voices were harmonious, and their enthusiasm was inspiring. At the end of their performance, the children formed a line, shook our hands and thanked us for coming. Our guide, Erami, then took us deeper into the village, where we watched him conduct a sevusevu—a welcoming ceremony where kava is presented to the local chief as a “thank you” for letting us into his community—before leading us to a building where we could buy various souvenirs and trinkets. On the boat ride back to the resort, I found myself talking more to the other guests as we excitedly shared how touching the experience was, and finally, I was feeling less like a random journalist on a couples retreat.

Immediately upon returning to Turtle Island, we sat down for a Fijian seafood lunch. This buffet-style feast featured everything from ceviche-like Kokoda (Fiji’s national dish) to huge bowls of octopus salad and marinated shrimp. As a seafood lover, I was in heaven. Later that evening, all of us gathered under the baka tree for a traditional Meke ceremony with the staff. It was a joy to watch my Mama Lo get lost in her indigenous method of storytelling, moving like water as she sang and danced. But it wasn’t just the Mamas and Papas that performed—it was the entire crew, from the snorkel guides and housekeepers to the cooks and massage therapists. They radiated joy and comfort, and when they asked us to get up and dance with them, not a single guest declined. We let loose, laughing, chanting and singing together. For dinner, the traditions continued with a Lovo dinner. Erami explained the importance of this underground-style of cooking, where hot coals are used to grill various meats that are wrapped in banana leaf over the course of several hours. I opted for the lobster, and we all dined with our toes in the sand, watching the massive fruit bats fly overhead as the gentle waves lapped along the quiet shore. 

After two nights of turning down Turtle Island’s ritual kava ceremony, which takes place with the staff every evening except on Sundays, I finally decided to partake. After the day we’d just had, how could I not? One of the most unique parts of this experience is the fact that guests are encouraged to interact with the team, breaking down the walls and barriers between guest and employee. I sat with Mama Lo, requesting a “low tide” pour as I got used to the earthy taste of kava. Though it wasn’t the most pleasant thing I’ve ever consumed, it wasn’t that bad. Supposedly, kava can have a hallucinogenic effect if enough is consumed, but I never felt more than a numb tongue. Regardless, watching the hard-working employees chat, cackle and unwind after a day of creating heaven on earth for us guests, is what gave me a true high. 

In an age where luxury travel can (sometimes rightfully) come under fire for elitism and exploitation, Turtle Island stands as a beacon of hope for what could be. From its sustainably focused solar-powered farm and water conservation efforts, this eco-resort proves its commitment to caring for the land it loves while providing a five-star experience for travelers. Perhaps most importantly, sharing Fijian culture is prioritized, standing strong amidst globalization and reminding its guests that there is power and pleasure in simplicity. Although I would certainly love to return for a future elopement, having the rare opportunity to visit alone removed the romantic distraction, providing a clear vision of what makes this island so special. While you’ll certainly enjoy the private beaches, world-class snorkeling, gourmet dining and endlessly flowing fruity cocktails, it is the embrace of local culture that leaves a lasting impact. Turtle Island refuses to let you be a tourist; rather, it makes you a member of its ever-growing family.